We're genuinely sad to leave Tonga, it's such a wonderful place. We go to sleep with the sound of the cicadas buzzing, and wake up to the smell of wood fires (on land!) and the sound of cockerels crowing.

We went to an outlying island last night in a restaurant run by the reincarnation of Rasputin and his old lady. No menu, but delicious salad, Spanish omelette, and paella (sans fish for me); no power in the building, only Tilley lamps. After dinner Rasputin entertained us with Spanish guitar, and his wife was transformed into a gorgeous senorita, who danced flamenco for us, complete with high heels, fan and castanets!

We've discovered the only downside to Tonga. We were having dinner in a little bar a few nights ago, when Mie astonished the house by letting out a blood-curdling scream which scared everyone. She had a really nasty bite on her toe, and it turned out a venomous centipede had crawled under the strap of her sandal and bit her: they are well known for being extremely painful. The local GP, an Italian, was in the room, and helpfully advised on her management. All has turned out okay, but they can be really nasty.

So we're sad to be leaving this wonderful place, but looking forward to Fiji.