Had a great time in Espiritu Santu. Third world but delightful. Dived on President Coolidge - world's largest intact wreck accessible to scuba divers. Sunk by (friendly) mine in 1942 with 5000 troops on board: only 2 fatalities. Hull lies from 20 - 70 metres close to the shore, and is completely intact. I had a terrific guide who took me all over her, some of it a bit scary, and only lit by his torch. Entered the doctors' outpatient clinic, and handled ampoules of drugs! Unbelievable experience.

Mie developed a severe light sensitivity on doxycycline, so went to the hospital to try and get some mefloquine (and chloroquine in case we develop malaria en route to Oz) What an eye-opener. Chickens scratching in the grass at our feet in out-patients, and no mefloquine, as it is too expensive. Managed to locate some in town - $60 for 16 tablets. I told Mie to imagine she's taking gold-dust pills, as they'd be about the same price!

We anchored off Aore Island, two miles across the sound from Santo, so our new RIB inflatable and outboard motor were fantastic. The dinghy planes easily at over twenty knots with three people on board, and will even plane with four, if it's before dinner and everyone is taking their Fybogel!

Left Santu at 1215 yesterday, 26 May, and have wonderful sailing conditions - 20+ knots of wind from ESE, and already 180 miles on our way across the Coral Sea to Oz. Have to avoid a few reefs, but not difficult navigation. We find the Bougainville light, then through the Grafton Passage to Cairns.

Sadly, we've finished with the South Pacific now, and it's back to relative civilisation for a while. It's all been unforgettable.

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