We left Bali Marina at 0930 as planned, and have struggled up the east coast all day. The tides are fierce, unpredictable and contrary, and there are apparently no rules to go by, but we are now north of the island, and conditions are perfect. We are back to a full-moon, and as usual we are captivated by it. It has a spiritual quality - a bit like when you put on the Messiah and hear those magical first few chords of "Comfort ye my people" - there, it has gone to my head. But put it on and picture the scene here and see what I mean.

The moon is an absolutely perfect circle rising in the east on our starboard side, with it's light shimmering in the sea: on our port side the looming shape of Bali, with Gunung Batur, the highest volcano rising high above the rest, a classic volcano shape, reminiscent of Mt Fuji. In the moonlight you can just see a whisp of cloud around the summit. It's a shame there were no 747s when Keats and Shelley were alive - they would have had something to say.

Poor Mazy have had a most inauspicious start: it was quite rough coming up, and they left their transom hatch open. Eventually Jofrik felt the helm was getting a bit heavy, and on going down found they had shipped about a ton of water into the aft cabin. All their bedding and linen is soaked, and everything salty!

Our destination is the Kangean Islands, which we should reach by late breakfast time tomorrow morning.

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