Sailed overnight from Riung to Rinca. Strong nerves were needed: it was a dark moonless night and our charts rather poor. At around 6 miles offshore both Hygeia and Mazy went over some very shallow patches less than 6 metres deep, uncharted. Spooky. We could also see fishing boats on the radar, but none with navigation lights.

Entered this gorgeous bay on Rinca at 1030 and anchored. Had a preliminary trip ashore in the afternoon and saw 3 enormous dragons over 3 metres long, and massive! Have arranged for a ranger to take us inland tomorrow at 0700 and he will show us more dragons.

The island is teeming with wildlife - monkeys, deer, buffalo, feral pigs, etc, not to mention the birds, and of course the dragons. We're anchored about 30 metres from the mangroves, and we can hear the creatures (whatever they are!) messing about in the jungle. There are sounds of great activity in the water (unidentified). And of course the cicadas.

Riung yesterday was idyllic: we had such a nice time in the village - all the houses built up on stilts on the edge of the water. They were so thrilled with our presents - colouring pencils, odds and ends from Ikea, fishhooks etc. Swarms of kids following us around - "ello meester" being their only English.

Indonesia has really been a revelation - friendly welcoming people, clean, no pollution, crystal clear water, wonderful corals and reef fish, beautiful beaches - the antithesis of what we expected.

Will report in tomorrow assuming the dragons don't get us. Having lived with one for 37 years I think I can cope!

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